To reach the Turkish part of the town, you pass through a narrow stone gateway. Kavala is full of steep, rocky stairs—both going up and coming down. No cars can go here. The streets twist and turn with many corners, shaded paths, mosques, minarets, glimpses of the blue sea, and warm sunshine. The colors of the town remind me of Neapolitan ice cream.
The People of Kavala
The Turkish people here seem lazy and worn out. They should be reading the Koran, but instead, they wear colorful sashes around their waists, white or green turbans, and baggy red pants. The air feels hot and sluggish, making even someone like me, a non-Muslim, feel like a Turk Laughing at the Challenge.
The Hotel
My hotel was not much to look at, but it was a good place to stay. It was run by a cheerful German woman named Kathe. Every European who visits Kavala knows her. She’s like a mother to all of them. She’s a fantastic cook, probably the best in all of Macedonia. She knows exactly how you like your food and always serves it clean.
A Surprise Meeting
While I was eating an omelette, I noticed some English voices across the room. There was Captain Hamilton, the son of Lord Claude Hamilton, dressed like a Turkish officer and working on police reforms. Also, there was a Belgian officer keeping an eye on the police, and Mr. Teofani, famous for his cigarettes Istanbul Tour Guides.
Cigarettes in Kavala
In Turkey, the only legal cigarettes to smoke are called Regie, which are made by the government. But no one in Kavala smokes Regie cigarettes. Every cigarette here is smuggled in, and they are all good quality. The best tobacco in the world grows on the plains behind Kavala. Although Egypt sells us cigarettes, it doesn’t grow any tobacco itself. It imports the best tobacco from Kavala. In 1905, Kavala exported about 1,000 tons of tobacco, worth about one million pounds. The government takes a ten percent royalty from this business. Only the leftover tobacco and scraps are used to make Regie cigarettes.
